Why draw historical fashion?

This illustration is inspired by an Iconic photograph known to many; depicting the Bar suit by Christian Dior - 1947.

The image encompasses the central themes of the ‘New Look’. The suit delicately displays the feminine body however the tailored Jacket adds the perfect touch of structure to the overall look.

Shot in Paris, the scene couldn’t be anymore Dior. The composition is perfect to draw; the pose sets the scene at the time in history, when elegance in fashion prevailed. The skill and craftsmanship of the garments being clearly evident. I was delighted when this piece was purchased by a collector in Chicago for his ‘Dior’ themed home!

I enjoy illustrating both contemporary fashion and dresses of the past. Alongside my professional drawing practice, I am a BA (Hons) Fashion Design tutor working mainly on final collections and portfolio. I strongly believe that drawing historical fashion not only increases your awareness of the craftsmanship that goes into a garment, it really does deepen your construction and fabric knowledge. One of my favourite exhibitions was the Dior at the V&A 2019.

As a Masters Womenswear student at the Royal College of Art (1998 -2000) I would often spend time drawing historical fashion at the V&A. Whist drawing fashion staged on mannequins in cabinets, your mind is also trying to un-pick what the original 2D pattern pieces would have looked like. 

I often illustrate the full figure, this is something I have finely tuned over many years. The most important aspect within my work is the clothes, although often abstract, I work hard to render fabric qualities convincingly through mixed media. 

Faces are important; however, these are often secondary to my imagery and rendered very quickly. I work fairly large scale, always hand rendered with traditional media, this particular illustration is A1 in format. 

I start every piece with a very quick pencil sketch then work in layers of watercolour, ink, acrylic paint and oil pastel. I sell the originals only. I want the viewer to appreciate the layering of the materials. I have produced editorial and trend illustration work in the past, however, now I primarily produce work to exhibit in an art gallery setting. I use artist quality highly pigmented media, this makes a huge difference to the final image.

I love to draw, it is part of me, I can’t help it. Generally, I draw from photographic reference, however, where possible drawing in a gallery setting or from life is wonderful, it is peaceful and you learn so much. Hopefully, my mark making gives the image a timeless quality, I also would like to convey through my historical work, that there is a sense of the contemporariness with a respect of the past. I do not want to simply copy an image exactly.

Through my teaching and academic research, I have developed sessions that utilise archived fashion. The study of historical garments and illustrations can often spark new exciting ideas particularly when mixed with the unexpected. I believe that theory should not be a separate entity in education, it should inform contemporary fashion practice. At the beginning of the first semester students learn to understand that designers at the ‘Couture’ and ‘Ready to Wear’ ateliers will look at the history of the brand, delve into the archives for inspiration to aid the development of collections that are right for now. 

Now that C-19 restrictions are over, I am looking forward to taking groups once more to Museums to draw in the fashion section, with the hope they will find the same joy and inspiration that I have found.

Caroline Riches Ma RCA