What does Adidas look like to you?

by Sophie Speyer

The dictionary definition of Collaboration is: ‘The act of working together, especially on a shared project’ For a long time now, Fashion has used collaboration to increase revenue streams. In creative industries, good collaboration means a high chance of commercial success. I guess for me the best collaborations are when the pairing is unexpected, and ideas are generously shared to create a new hybrid that is really interesting. Back in 2004 when Stella McCartney launched her joint-venture with Adidas (designing a Women’s Performance collection) it was surprising and commercial all-at-once. All of McCartney’s taste-level and feminine colour palette was translated into wearable everyday sportswear, and it worked brilliantly (and still does). Suddenly Adidas seem to be doing more and more high-end collaborations. Balenciaga and Gucci are both owned by Kering, the French-based Global Luxury Goods Specialists. In a clever deal, Adidas has secured collaborative contracts with both Balenciaga and Gucci.

Recently I was scrolling through the Balenciaga Resort ‘23 collection and I stumbled across Demna Gvasalia’s capsule collaboration with Adidas. Please note that I love this Balenciaga collection (although it feels more A/W that Resort to me) because it is range-built down to the last stitch detail, and each piece works separately or styled with other pieces from the collection. This Balenciaga collection is highly commercial, and my eyes see silhouettes that will filter down to the highstreet for the next 3 seasons. The Adidas bit of the collection is a massive nod to the Sportswear trend that keeps growing. Demna even amplifies the Football Strip T-shirt to a new luxury level. Every piece of this Balenciaga X Adidas collaboration (which is sandwiched between couture tailoring and sequined evening gowns) is sportswear super-chic. All of it is oversized with clever pattern-cutting that makes tracksuit trousers billow and boxy jackets hang low. Is there enough Balenciaga in the pieces? Yes. Do they need the 3 stripes? Do these looks need to be Adidas branded? Does the Balenciaga X Adidas logo make these pieces cooler? I personally have a creeping feeling that the Balenciaga logo under Demna’s creative direction has enough cache. I’m not sure we need to see it through an Adidas lens.

The Gucci X Adidas Collaboration was highly anticipated, and came buzzing down the runway for AW22. Where Alessandro Michele puts the Adidas logo onto tailored suits it’s not working for me. But when he overprints the vintage Adidas Trefoil logo onto tartan something good happens. Michele is the King of luxury print and pattern mash-up, and some of that magic re-shuffle happens in the Gucci X Adidas collaboration. I think that the accessories are the best bit of this capsule. They are a little reminder that Gucci was originally a boutique for luggage. When the Adidas logo is placed on an oversized Gucci Tote or Gucci Handbag, suddenly the bags look less uptight and more backstage VIP. But the question remains the same, do the pieces in the Gucci X Adidas collection really need the 3-stripes treatment? Does the Adidas logo improve the designs? Do they bring something new? Does the collaboration amplify the best bits of both brands? For me, it’s only working in small parts. It feels counter-intuitive for me not to be enthusiastic. I love what’s happening at Balenciaga and Gucci right now. Do I think Balenciaga, Gucci and Adidas needed to make product together, not really.